The Anatomy of a Blackhead

Greetings. The weather is so beautiful and I hope you are outside having fun and of course wearing your sunblock.
I thought I would cover a topic I get questioned about over and over again in my SkinCare practice: Those annoying spots on the skin that haunt young and old: Blackheads! I'll cover what a blackhead is, why they occur, how to prevent them and how to treat existing blackheads.

Blackheads are a collection of oil, produced in the sebaceous glands of the skin, and dead skin cells. The oil and dead skin cells are embedded in the pores of the skin and are usually yellowish or black in color. This "clogged" pore is known as an open comedone. Exposure of the oil/skin cells to air causes the substance to oxidize and thus turn black.

Typically blackheads develop after puberty. Hormones developed during puberty have a stimulating effect on oil production in the skin. The excess oil gets trapped in the pore. Normally the oil produced in the pores will rise up and onto the surface of the skin and lubricate the skin. When there is too much oil coming up through the pore it will become stuck in the narrow passage. Another cause of blackheads is accumulation of dry, dead skin cells on the surface of the skin. The layer of dry skin acts like a cap at the top of the pore and traps oil and dead skin cells inside. Blackheads may start to develop after puberty but can occur at any age actually due to many reasons from improper care of the skin, wearing too much make up, using products that clog the pores, sun exposure, and medical conditions.

To prevent blackheads proper care of the skin is essential. The skin should be cleansed deeply daily but not over stripped of oil. For Teens: A cleanser with Salicylic Acid is ideal as salicylic (derived from the willow tree), is lipo phylic, or breaks down oils. Younger skin can tolerate a low benzoyl peroxide product. Exfoliation is key also but over scrubbing the skin will cause irritation and dry skin which adds to the formation of blackheads. Exfoliate with a mild product that does not contain sharp particles. Jojoba Beads, which are made of a natural wax, are excellent. Toners with a low percentage of alcohol are good, and they can contain Salicylic also. Finally for a teen a mask used weekly is very good. I mix up a Camphor/Sulphur Mask for my Teen clients and recommend they use it weekly all over the face, and they can use it as a spot treatment nightly.

For Adults with Blackheads proper cleansing is also essential. A deep cleaning mild cleanser once a day is good. One that does not leave the skin tight!! Ingredients like Salicylic and Glycolic are excellent. Benzoyl Peroxide is too harsh for older skin. Toners are very important, don't think they aren't. A good one corrects the oil levels produced. Exfoliation is probably your most important step and should be done one to three times a week. I have seen great succes with my Grapefruit Facial Polish. Hydration is also very important. Serums with anti-oxidants, salicylic, lactic acid and hyaluronic are phenomenal for dissolving dead skin cells, and excess oil while hydrating without oils. Sunblocks containing physical blocks, zinc and titanium, are best as they do not clog the pores or add too much oil. I also mix up a less drying Camphor/Sulphur Mask for my adult clients to use as a spot treatment.

I hope this helps all of those concerned about blackheads. Let me know if you have any questions. Diane.

What is an Alpha-Hydroxy Acid and Why do I Want to Use One

Alpha Hydroxy 101

Hello All, This week I thought I would give you a brief overview of Alpha Hydroxy Acids. You must have heard this phase before and I bet you know that they stimulate skin cell renewal thereby revealing fresh new skin and a smoother texture. However do you know the difference between the various Alpha Hydroxy Acids and which one does what? I thought I'd make it very clear so here goes.

Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) are naturally occurring organic acids found in foods. These acids are used to treat many conditions. They are used to treat wrinkles, have been shown to increase the thickness of the skin and also stimulate hydration of the skin cells. Glycolic Acid is derived from sugar and has the smallest molecular size of all of the Alpha-hydroxy Acids, thereby penetrating the skin very well. Glycolic acid is responsible for stimulating cell turnover and revealing fresh skin cells. As we age the 28 day cycle of skin cellular renewal drags out to up to 40 days! This results in a lackluster complexion. Glycolic Acid has also been shown to stimulate collagen. This sugar derivative can be irritating in high percentages and I like it when it is combined with other hydroxy's to reduce this irritation and still get a great renewal of the skin. You also get the full spectrum of all the hydroxy's when you use them in combination.

Lactic Acid is derived from milk. It is less irritating than Glycolic Acid. Lactic Acid will stimulate skin cell renewal and has a very hydrating effect on the skin. I love Lactic Acid as it is gentle but very effective. I use it in combination with other hydroxy's in my line of skincare. Lactic Acid will also help with uneven skin tone, or brown spots.

Mandelic Acid comes from Almonds and is being used more and more. It is gentle yet will still stimulate skin cell renewal and help with the uneven skin color many people have from sun exposure and trauma to the skin.

I recommend using some form of alpha hydroxy acid for a mini-chemical peel effect on a daily basis. I also like to use them in combination. They can be used in a serum form for more aggressive results or in a moisturizer for progressive gentle renewal of the skin. Alpha hydroxy Acids are excellent for Acne, Aged Skin, Skin with Hyperpigmentation (uneven color) and to produce a more luminous complexion.

Any Questions? I'll be happy to answer.

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Take it easy,

Diane.

The Facts about Sun Protection

THE NUMBER ONE ANTI-AGING PRODUCT

It may seem like an exaggeration but using sunscreen is truly the number one anti-aging product available to you. Here are my recommendations on SPF (sun protection factor) use and some facts about sunscreens. Use this information for yourself and your family.

WHAT DOES A SUNSCREEN DO? Protect you from ultra violet rays coming from the sun. There are 2 types of rays that can damage the skin: UVA and UVB. UVB rays penetrate just below the epidermis and cause the skin to burn. Hyperpigmentation, sun spots, an unattractive skin texture are the long term result of unprotected UVB damage as well as the possibility of skin cancer.

UVA rays pentrate deeper in the skin causing damage to the dermis and results in wrinkles and premature aging of the skin as well as the possibility of skin cancer. UVA rays can penetrate cloud cover, light clothing and untinted glass.

PROTECTION FROM HARMFUL UV RAYS ARE A MUST. SOME FACTS ABOUT SPF'S:

The spf number goes up as the effectiveness of a product goes up. Spf 15 blocks 93% of UV rays.

spf 30 blocks 97% of rays and spf 50 blocks 98%. The number also can be put into an equation to determine time out in the sun you are protected at the above rates.

If you burn in 10 minutes multiply your spf number by 10 and you will get the amount of minutes you are protected. Example: I burn in about 10 mins. I wear a 30 spf everyday, 10 x 30 =300 minutes of 97% protection from UV rays. But don't be fooled by that high number of minutes. It is actually recommended to reapply sunscreen every 2 hours regardless of number.

PLEASE MAKE IT SIMPLE

Ok, My recommendations:

Wear sunscreen everyday of the year. At least an spf 0f 15. I personally recommend 30 Spf.

Find a sunscreen you like and you will be more likely to wear it.

Apply sunscreen over your moisturizer if you also wear one.

Apply 15 to 30 minutes before exposure.

Apply liberally, spf numbers are calculated with the use of 1 oz of sunscreen per application to body, that's about 2 tablespoons to cover body and face.

Reapply every 2 hours, more frequently if swimming or playing sports.

Wear suncreen no matter what skin tone you are.

When applying to the face do not forget the ears, neck, back of the neck. Never forget your hands or feet.

Apply two coats to insure maximum and complete coverage, no kidding.

Do not forget your children going off to school with outdoor play time.

PHYSICAL/CHEMICAL BLOCKS:

Your sunscreen should contain zinc oxide and titanium oxide which are physical blocks Or Avobenzone (Parsol 1789) which is a chemical block . The oxide minerals work very well by scattering the rays or bouncing the rays off of the body. The newer physical blocks are transparent and do not leave the skin white. Avobenzone absorbs the sun rays.

A third type of sunscreen is Mexoryl which has been recently awarded FDA approval on a limited basis in the US, it is widely used in Europe and is also a chemical block that works very well.

Sunblocks should have a three year shelf life which will be indicated on the jar/tube.

Please take a little time in the morning and apply your Sunscreen, like I said it is the number one anti-aging product available.

Take Care, Diane.

Comments Welcome

Just a note: at the bottom of each of my entries you will find the word "comments"

I would love feedback, questions, any comments relevant to skin care. I look forward to hearing from you. Diane.

AT HOME PICK ME UP: THE HONEY PAT

AT HOME PICK ME UP: THE HONEY PAT

I think you will love this simple at home remedy that will give your skin a pick me up.
It's so simple: Wash your face with a gentle cleanser, towel dry.
Pour approximately 1 tsp. of honey onto the finger tips, those Honey Bear containers make this simple.Warm the honey by working between fingertips. Apply to your clean face (it helps to tie your hair back). Once it's on your entire face, just a thin coat will do, start to tap your face with your fingertips. Tap, tap, tap it all over. Concentrate on areas that might have clogged pores. Continue Tapping entire face for a minute or so. OK, rinse your hands and relax leaving the honey on the face for 5 to 15 minutes. Time to rinse: Use warm water to rinse off the honey, which will dissolve very easily. Use your toner, then moisturizer with your favorite cream. You have just completed the Honey Pat. This treatment will do the following:

Hydrate the skin, honey is a natural humectant

Stimulate skin cell renewal, honey is a natural lactic acid

Stimulate circulation, all that tapping does it

Kill bacteria

Lift dead, dry skin cells

Your skin should have a luminous glow. Go ahead go out and make your friends jealous of your beautiful skin!!

Take it easy, Diane Higgins.