The Anatomy of a Blackhead

Greetings. The weather is so beautiful and I hope you are outside having fun and of course wearing your sunblock.
I thought I would cover a topic I get questioned about over and over again in my SkinCare practice: Those annoying spots on the skin that haunt young and old: Blackheads! I'll cover what a blackhead is, why they occur, how to prevent them and how to treat existing blackheads.

Blackheads are a collection of oil, produced in the sebaceous glands of the skin, and dead skin cells. The oil and dead skin cells are embedded in the pores of the skin and are usually yellowish or black in color. This "clogged" pore is known as an open comedone. Exposure of the oil/skin cells to air causes the substance to oxidize and thus turn black.

Typically blackheads develop after puberty. Hormones developed during puberty have a stimulating effect on oil production in the skin. The excess oil gets trapped in the pore. Normally the oil produced in the pores will rise up and onto the surface of the skin and lubricate the skin. When there is too much oil coming up through the pore it will become stuck in the narrow passage. Another cause of blackheads is accumulation of dry, dead skin cells on the surface of the skin. The layer of dry skin acts like a cap at the top of the pore and traps oil and dead skin cells inside. Blackheads may start to develop after puberty but can occur at any age actually due to many reasons from improper care of the skin, wearing too much make up, using products that clog the pores, sun exposure, and medical conditions.

To prevent blackheads proper care of the skin is essential. The skin should be cleansed deeply daily but not over stripped of oil. For Teens: A cleanser with Salicylic Acid is ideal as salicylic (derived from the willow tree), is lipo phylic, or breaks down oils. Younger skin can tolerate a low benzoyl peroxide product. Exfoliation is key also but over scrubbing the skin will cause irritation and dry skin which adds to the formation of blackheads. Exfoliate with a mild product that does not contain sharp particles. Jojoba Beads, which are made of a natural wax, are excellent. Toners with a low percentage of alcohol are good, and they can contain Salicylic also. Finally for a teen a mask used weekly is very good. I mix up a Camphor/Sulphur Mask for my Teen clients and recommend they use it weekly all over the face, and they can use it as a spot treatment nightly.

For Adults with Blackheads proper cleansing is also essential. A deep cleaning mild cleanser once a day is good. One that does not leave the skin tight!! Ingredients like Salicylic and Glycolic are excellent. Benzoyl Peroxide is too harsh for older skin. Toners are very important, don't think they aren't. A good one corrects the oil levels produced. Exfoliation is probably your most important step and should be done one to three times a week. I have seen great succes with my Grapefruit Facial Polish. Hydration is also very important. Serums with anti-oxidants, salicylic, lactic acid and hyaluronic are phenomenal for dissolving dead skin cells, and excess oil while hydrating without oils. Sunblocks containing physical blocks, zinc and titanium, are best as they do not clog the pores or add too much oil. I also mix up a less drying Camphor/Sulphur Mask for my adult clients to use as a spot treatment.

I hope this helps all of those concerned about blackheads. Let me know if you have any questions. Diane.